The 5 Best Bang for the Buck Triathlon Bike Upgrades

Cycling geeks might call it “Free Speed” or “Marginal Gains.” But the pursuit of incremental gains to get faster on the bike is a big deal, because when it comes to achieving ambitious goals, there’s nothing marginal about it—it absolutely matters. Chasing those watt savings can mean getting to run transition a few minutes faster than last year—and that much closer to a new PR, that podium spot, or world championships qualification. Shaving seconds, carving minutes, call it what you want; it works.

So Quintana Roo decided to go to a few authorities on triathlon bike aerodynamics and speed: Josh Poertner and Miguel Mattox. As the former Technical Director at Zipp and the current lead designer and CEO at Silca, Josh is one of the foremost experts in wind tunnel testing wheels and frames and friction testing lubricants and bearings. If it involves watts savings—either from aero drag reduction or friction reduction—Josh is the guy. His attention to detail is unrivaled. And Miguel? As a rising talent on the 70.3 circuit whose livelihood relies upon taking advantage of those marginal gains, we think his input has quite a bit of merit.

So we asked them: What are five of their top bang-for-buck details to make you a faster triathlete? These were their picks...

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1. Proper Tire Pressure

Cost: Free!

Number one on this list isn’t really an “upgrade,” but tire pressure has a massive impact on performance so it’s definitely worth paying attention to. Choosing the proper air pressure for your race tires is like a Goldilocks conundrum; they shouldn’t be too hard, nor too soft. But what constitutes “just right” when it comes to low rolling resistance, as well as safe traction? There’s a tool for that, thanks to Poertner’s company, Silca.

Silca’s Tire Pressure Calculator can help you determine the right pressure for the tire type and volume you’re running. Or if you just want a convenient chart, we have a Quintana Roo Tire Pressure Guide you can reference. 

In general, lower pressures allow tires to conform better to imperfections in the road surface. Because of this, energy doesn’t get lost to hysteresis, which occurs when the energy required to deform the tire is greater than the energy recovered as the tire leaves the pavement. Stated more simply, low-pressure tires don’t lose as many watts by getting bounced around or vibrating, which are forms of friction slowing you down. You don’t want to go TOO low either, because this will cause bouncing, excessive tire roll in corners, punctures, or potential rim damage from rim strikes. That’s why it’s important to reference a calculator or pressure guide, to find the perfect balance.  

Tire pressure may seem like a small and inconsequential thing, but according to Poertner, running the ideal tire pressure can account for as much as 44 watts of energy savings. Paired with good race tires (more on that below), running the proper tire pressure will reduce rolling resistance, improve traction (so you can brake later and hit corners faster), and increase comfort. “This might be the best place to start on your bike,” Poertner says, “because you get such a big gain for not very much money.” 

Air is free (unless you don’t already have a pump), so this is a great place to dial in your setup for some free watts. The only equipment you might need is a trustworthy tire pressure gauge. Many pumps come with one, but if you want the most accuracy, handheld digital tire pressure gauges are extremely accurate and affordable. 

2. A Clean & Well-Lubricated Drivetrain 

Cost: ~$20-40 for cleaning products and lube 

It’s a wonder so many triathletes roll their bike into transition in a condition they consider race-ready. After all, their bike has been washed and is sparkling. Race wheels? Check—got ‘em strapped up. But the chain and cassette? It’s black and gunked up with lube, or bone-dry and squeaky 

Your drivetrain is a major drag—literally and figuratively. As lube gets older, it dries. As its lubricating properties wane, it becomes a bit sticky. What we WANT to see is the metallic sheen of a clean chain, with no old black lube—as well as no rust (be sure to dry your chain after a wet ride), no bits of grit, just those shiny silver links. A greasy (or neglected, bone-dry) chain is a bit icky, but the drag and resistance a dirty chain leaves is unconscionable. 

“There is a reason you see the bikes at the Tour de France get a deep clean after every stage,” Poertner says. “A clean bike is a fast bike. Dirt, dust, sand, water, etc can all get into your chain and not only slow you down by up to six watts after one wet ride, but they combine to act almost as liquid sandpaper. This can destroy the life of your chain, chainrings, and cassette.” 

Your action item, per Poertner? Clean that chain. “A deep clean with a hose is great,” says Poertner. Use a degreaser to get the grease, grime, sand, mud—you name the offending material—off the chain. Or, if on the go, SILCA’s Gear Wipes are an easy way to quickly wipe your chain clean when you don’t have access to a hose. Get everything spotless, dry your chain off, and re-lube with your lube of choice. Be sure to wipe away all the excess lube on the surface of your chain, because it will attract grit and grime. Lubricant only needs to be inside the chain rollers to maximize efficiency and cleanliness. 

Wet lube vs. dry lube? It doesn’t really matter as much as cleanliness. Remembering to keep that chain clear of dirt and grime—and topped off with a fresh lubricant—not only makes it fast, but it also keeps the chain from wearing out prematurely. Keep your chain clean and keep your spend down.

If you want the fastest, cleanest lube option though, nothing beats immersion waxing, closely followed by drip-on wax coatings. Chain waxing products are something Poertner has innovated a lot with the Silca brand, and his products are some of our favorites.

Be warned though, that chain waxing has a higher upfront cost (it can be anywhere from ~$50-200 to get started depending on the products you choose) and it requires a bit more work and maintenance than traditional lube, so it’s worth doing your research. For some athletes, the time it takes to strip a chain of factory grease and apply wax might be better used for training or recovery!

3. Tubeless Race Tires 

Cost: ~$150-200 per pair

Some of us might remember riding 17mm tubulars pumped up to 130 psi. They were hard as rocks, but the thought was, that the smaller the contact patch on the ground, the better. These days, we’ve learned that rolling resistance is not just a matter of creating the smallest contact patch with the pavement. Testing has shown that wider tires and lower tire pressures actually roll faster because roads aren’t perfectly smooth surfaces. That’s why tire pressure is “upgrade” number one on this list. 

As bike technology has advanced, tubeless wheels and tires have finally come from mountain biking to the road. This is great because tubeless tires allow athletes to use much lower tire pressures because there’s no risk of pinch flatting an inner tube. They also have lower rolling resistance than comparable clinchers, they’re more puncture-resistant, and they’re much easier to live with than old-school tubulars that require special rims and glue. We know many triathletes shy away from the concept of tubeless because it requires a new set of knowledge to install and maintain, but trust us, tubeless is worth it. 

Tubeless road tires can be run at much lower tire pressures. Instead of 80 to 100 psi, think 40 to 75 psi. The watt savings are significant, especially with a fast-rolling tire set. “By switching from your endurance tires to one of the fastest options,” Poertner says, “you can save 13 watts per tire or 26 watts for the pair.”

When race day comes, putting on any of the super-fast tubeless race tires on the market—think Continental GP5000 S TR/TT or Vittoria Corsa Pro/Speed—is one of the best watt-per-dollar upgrades you can make. 

The net gain of going tubeless is not just lower pressures and improved rolling resistance. Long-time IRONMAN fans may remember seeing Normann Stadler sitting roadside after Kiawe thorns caused two flat tires and famously took him out of the race at the Hawaii Ironman in 2005. Ultimately, nothing is slower than a flat tire, and the reliability and peace of mind tubeless provides is a serious benefit too. That’s why Quinatan Roo’s pro triathletes like Miguel Mattox have made the switch. 

“When you’re racing, you can’t think about anything but the race itself,” Mattox says. “You’re at your limit for several hours and any external thought is wasted energy. Little things like running tubeless might seem like nothing, but it’s about eliminating any doubt or question that you’ll make it to T2, allowing you to stay fully focused on the front of the race.”

Most punctures (e.g., from steel belt threads, staples, glass, and yep, those Kona Kiawe thorns) are instantly plugged up by the sealant rolling around within the tire. Most times you won’t even know you’ve had a puncture. 

If a puncture doesn’t seal with just sealant, carrying a tubeless tire plug tool will let you fix most punctures. Plugs are MUCH faster and easier than removing your wheel and tire to insert a spare tube. Plugging a tubeless puncture can take only a few seconds, which could keep you in the race.  

4. A Triathlon-Specific Bike Fit 

Cost: ~$400-600 depending on the fitter

As upgrades go, a bike fit isn’t as sexy as race wheels or an aero helmet. But for many triathletes, it’s potentially the biggest bang-for-buck “upgrade” you can get. In fact, it can vastly outweigh every other upgrade. Wheels, helmet, drivetrain, you name it.

The basic idea behind a triathlon bike fit is to reduce your frontal area—to punch as small a hole in the wind as possible. But that basic tenet comes with a caveat; it needs to be a position that is not just biomechanically safe (i.e., it’s not too high or low or long or short that it causes you a knee injury, for example), it’s also one you can comfortably hold and sustain—for hours. Adopting the most aggressive aero position possible doesn’t mean much if you can only hold for 20 seconds. An ideal aero position is one you can maintain at hours four, five, or six of an Ironman bike. 

For longtime triathletes, a bike fit isn’t something you only do once. It’s a continual process of tweaking your position in the search for fractional watts savings while maintaining (or improving) power numbers. But if you’re new to the sport, and you’ve just been riding based on a basic bike setup from your local shop (which generally puts a priority on your knee angle and ensuring the saddle’s not too high or low), you may have massive aero—and power—gains to be had. 

So our recommendation: spend a bit of money on a triathlon-specific fit. Don’t just walk into any random shop. Research bike fitters in your area, and look for well-reviewed fitters who specialize in triathlon or time trial bikes. A good fit will help you both aerodynamically, and biomechanically. Your saddle will be in the ideal position for your leg length, and your cockpit will be in the right place to achieve a low torso angle that reduces your frontal area (and drag) as much as possible while being sustainable for long rides.  

Luckily for you: Quintana Roo’s unique Fit-Ready service allows your fitter to send our build team your fit details upon purchase of a V-PRi, V-PR, or X-PR. Our team will then build your new bike to your fit. It’s a service no other bike company offers, so consider it as you build your new QR to suit your style AND your fit.

5. Aero Carbon Wheels

Cost: ~$1,400-2,800 for most high-quality carbon wheels

There’s a reason carbon aero wheels are the most popular bike upgrade: strapping on a set of aero carbon wheels provides the biggest visual upgrade to your ride. Your bike goes from casual mode to race mode—instantly. 

Looks aside, aero wheels do improve your bike’s ability to carve through the wind much, much better. Your wheels (and tires) are the component of your bike that contacts the air first. They’re also constantly spinning, which creates turbulence, which creates drag. Using deeper, more aerodynamic wheels helps smooth airflow as it moves across your bike, keeping it attached, and reducing drag. This saves you precious watts. 

Also, the faster you go, the better your aero wheels get. The apparent wind angle (the angle of crosswind when combined with your own bike speed) is reduced the faster you go; you’ll become less affected by crosswind blasts from the side as you go faster.  

So all in all, how much can aero wheels save you? Testing has shown that compared to a standard shallow alloy wheel, most mid-depth carbon aero wheels—think ~60mm like the HED Vanquish RCS Performance, DT Swiss ARC 1600 DiCut, or Zipp 454 NSW wheels that are available to choose from on most Quintana Roo bike orders—can save you about 16 watts. 

Wattage savings go up as the rim gets deeper (up to a disc in the rear, of course). The one caveat: it’s all contingent upon selecting the depth of wheels most appropriate for your race course conditions.

If money is no option, we see athletes with a full complement of wheels of every depth, ready for any conditions—think having a bag of golf clubs with the full range of clubheads, from putters to pitching wedges to drivers. But if you can go for one set, a mid-depth wheel around 60mm will perform admirably across any conditions; from flat to hilly, windy to calm, and serve as a perfect everyday training wheelset as well. 

Of course, there are many other places where you can seek aero watts gains; from tricked-out tri kits to aero helmets, to that “turtle” head position you’ve been practicing, each piece adds up. So keep hunting! When you earn that PR or podium by mere seconds, you’ll know those marginal gains paid dividends.

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