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Quintana Roo engineers have spent countless hours in the wind tunnel shaping our triathlon frames to be as aerodynamically efficient as possible. Ultimately, though, the frame is just one part of the aero equation, and the perfect complement to a fast frame is a good set of aerodynamic carbon wheels. Good aero wheels will maximize your performance, and if you ask me, they make any bike look (and sound) awesome.
Aero wheels are usually one of the first upgrades competitive triathletes should consider because they can shave seconds, or even minutes, off your bike leg. They are generally considered one of the simplest ways for an athlete to “buy speed.” If you’re new to the world of high-performance bike gear, I’ll break down the basics of aero wheels so you know what to look for when upgrading your triathlon bike.
Your wheels hit the air first. Photo: Zipp“Aero wheels are always a great, great, great investment. They are what contact the air first and everything else comes behind them." - Brad DeVaney, Quintana Roo’s Lead Product Engineer
When talking about aero wheels, we’re generally referring to wheels made out of carbon fiber. Many entry-level bikes will come with aluminum wheels, which work great, but won’t have the same performance as more aerodynamic carbon wheels. If you’re going to upgrade your triathlon bike, your wheels are often the best place to start because they have a huge effect on how your bike performs.
Carbon fiber is an ideal performance wheel material because it’s exceptionally light, stiff, and strong. As a result, carbon wheels are much lighter and stiffer than comparable aluminum wheels. Wheels are rotating weight, so they have a huge effect on how a bike feels. Lighter and stiffer wheels will improve your bike's acceleration and handling. The main benefit though is carbon’s high strength-to-weight ratio. This is what allows wheelmakers to create exceptionally deep, aerodynamic rim shapes without a major weight penalty.
Because air resistance is the greatest force riders have to overcome to maintain speed on a bike, increasing the aerodynamic efficiency of your wheels is one of the best ways to improve performance. Through wind tunnel testing with our athletes, we’ve found that on average, 60mm aero wheels can save around 10 watts at 40kph compared to stock alloy wheels (e.g., the Shimano RS171). This can equate to a ~64 second savings over 40km. By going deeper to 80mm or a full disc in the rear, it’s possible to achieve even bigger gains, especially on flat courses.
That said, I’m never a fan of telling people they need to spend money to compete. If alloy wheels are what you can afford, then race them! I’ve been beaten by plenty of riders on alloy wheels. Ultimately, it’s the engine that makes the biggest difference, and the only thing you have to compete against is yourself. You can succeed on any bike equipped with any wheels.
BUT, if you are trying to maximize your potential on race day and chasing ambitious goals, good carbon aero wheels will always be faster than standard aluminum wheels.
Other than cost (if you’re shopping for triathlon bikes at Quintana Roo, use our bike configurator to compare full bike pricing with specific wheel upgrades), there are four basic specs to pay attention to when comparing carbon aero wheels for your bike:
For triathletes, rim depth and rim width will have the biggest effect on bike performance. I’ll break these specs down and provide some recommendations for riders shopping for their next bike or wheelset. Scroll further down and you’ll find the specs for our most popular wheel upgrade options listed out so you can compare them.
Wheels ~60mm deep are my pick for all-around use.
Rim depth measures the “thickness” of the wheel rim. Depth is measured in millimeters, and most triathletes will likely be shopping for wheels in the 60-80mm range. Depending on your needs, there are shallower and deeper wheel options as well.
Aero wheels increase aerodynamic efficiency by reducing turbulence, and that boils down to one key goal: keeping airflow attached to the wheel surface for as long as possible. Increasing the depth of a rim provides more surface area for air to remain attached, allowing wheels to pass through the air more cleanly with fewer wakes and less turbulence. All else being equal, deeper rims are more aerodynamic than shallower rims. That’s why you’ll sometimes see athletes going to the extreme with a full disc wheel in the rear. Full disc and ultra-deep 80mm+ wheels are the most aero option, but extreme wheel depth comes with some trade-offs.
A full disc is the most aero option for extremely flat courses and calm wind conditions. Discs aren't very practical and are only available by special request.
Deeper wheels generally weigh more than shallower wheels, which you’ll be able to feel when accelerating or climbing. The biggest concern, though, is that deeper wheels are less stable in crosswinds. In strong crosswinds, deep wheels will get blown side-to-side more easily. This not only saps speed and energy, but it makes handling your bike more difficult. In some cases, it’s dangerous (e.g., getting blown off the road or into traffic). Some events, like IRONMAN Kona, don’t allow full disc wheels because of strong winds.
Crosswinds affect the front wheel the most, so some brands design aero wheelsets with shallower front wheels to improve handling in crosswinds. You can also customize a wheelset for windy conditions by ordering front and rear wheels separately (reach out to our team if you want to order a QR with a custom wheel setup!). This allows you to choose a shallow front wheel for more control in crosswinds and a deeper rear wheel for straight line speed.
Pros and serious racers often have multiple wheelsets for different courses and conditions. They may have some shallower wheels for courses with a lot of climbing or strong crosswinds. Then they might also have some extra-deep wheels (or maybe a full disc in the rear) for extremely flat and fast courses with favorable wind conditions.
Most of us can only justify buying a single set of wheels though. In that case, I generally recommend shopping for wheels that are around ~60mm deep as they are the best option for all-around use. As mentioned earlier, 60mm wheels save you around 10 watts over a stock aluminum rim, or just over a minute over a 40km TT. For me, they provide the best compromise between aerodynamic efficiency, crosswind stability, and low weight for tackling hills. If you live, train, and race somewhere extremely flat (e.g., Florida), then I might consider deeper ~80mm wheels. That said, I always end up wishing for shallower wheels when it gets super windy!
There are two key rim width measurements: internal rim width and external rim width
When it comes to aerodynamic performance, external rim width is the main thing we care about. More specifically, we care about external rim width relative to tire width. Remember that aerodynamic efficiency comes down to keeping airflow attached to the wheels and moving smoothly. Because the tire hits the air before the rim, choosing a rim with an external width that helps keep air attached will improve efficiency.
Through extensive wind tunnel testing, former Zipp engineer and aerodynamics legend, Josh Poertner, discovered that the external rim width must be at least 105% the width of the tire to maximize the wheel’s ability to re-capture airflow from the tire and smooth it. This discovery led to the “Rule of 105” and, other than rim depth, it is the main thing I pay attention to when shopping for triathlon wheels.
Photo: Silca
As a general rule, you should choose a rim width that suits your desired tire width best -OR- choose your tire width based on your current rim width best. I don’t get too obsessed with perfectly matching my tire and rim width. I often run 28mm tires on my 28mm external rims, just for a bit of extra comfort, even though I know I’m breaking the Rule of 105. As long as the tire isn’t wider than the rim, it’s okay. If I’m optimizing for race day though, I’ll often look to switch to 25-27mm tires.
Internal rim width measures the internal distance between the rim walls, and that’s important too, but I don’t pay as much attention to it because it doesn’t have a major effect on aerodynamics. If you care about maximizing handling and comfort though, wider internal rim widths are generally better because they provide more tire sidewall support during cornering and allow you to use lower tire pressures.
In triathlon, aerodynamics matter more than weight. That said, lightweight wheels tend to feel nicer to ride than heavier wheels. That’s because your wheels are rotating weight, which is most noticeable when accelerating or climbing. Lighter wheels will make your bike feel more responsive and agile, and make it easier to accelerate out of slow corners or up hills. What is the trade-off? Cost—lighter wheels tend to cost significantly more, especially if you want wheels that are both deep and light.
Ultimately, I pay very little attention to wheel weight on triathlon bikes. Unless you’re competing on a course with a significant amount of climbing (e.g. Challenge Sanremo), I’d just focus on aerodynamics and not stress about a few extra grams. If you’re curious though, here are my opinions on wheel weights:
It’s important to know whether your rims are hooked or hookless. Hooked rims are more traditional. They have a hook on the rim wall that helps secure the tire bead. Hookless rims have become more common with modern tubeless wheels. The two most notable brands using a hookless design are Zipp and ENVE. The tolerances between hookless rims and tires have to be tighter to ensure a secure fit, so hookless rims should only be used with hookless compatible tubeless tires.
There’s a lot of debate surrounding hooked vs. hookless rims, especially after a couple of high-profile hookless wheel failures in the pro road racing world. Hookless wheels are easier to manufacture, and in some cases they provide a bit of puncture protection (e.g., ENVE’s wide hookless bead design prevents pinch flats). However, riders concerned about safety or who ride higher pressures will likely prefer wheels with hooked rims for extra peace of mind.
Photo: Continental
Anecdotally, I’ve used hookless road rims for several years and in all sorts of extreme conditions and races with no issues. So have many others. I personally don’t worry about it. If you use hookless wheels though, be sure to use hookless compatible tires and follow ETRTO guidelines for tire width (see the chart above) to avoid any issues.
The most important thing to know is that tires on hookless rims should NEVER be inflated beyond 72.5 PSI. Exceeding this pressure can cause your wheels or tires to fail. The main reason to avoid hookless is if your weight and tire width combo requires using tire pressures above 72.5 PSI. If you’re new to tire pressure selection, I suggest reading through our tire pressure guide for more guidance:
These are current wheelset options offered on the X-PR, V-PR, and V-PRi. We try to offer the wheels that we want to use on our bikes. These are all wheelsets we use ourselves and that get chosen by our pro athletes. They have been proven in the wind tunnel and high-level races. We trust these brands because they have great reputations, quality control, and warranties. They also tend to look great and have efficient, high-quality hubs!
I’ll break down the key specs so you can compare wheelsets and provide some of my thoughts on each. The wheelsets are listed in order from most affordable to most expensive. Go ahead and play with our bike builder to see what the upgrade cost is for each wheelset on your desired frame. Some wheelset options aren’t offered with certain models in our bike builder, but if you want a specific wheelset on a specific frame, you can always request it with our team. If you have more questions about a particular wheelset, don’t hesitate to contact us!
The alloy Shimano RS171 is mainly included here for comparison’s sake because it is the entry-level stock wheelset that we spec on the Quintana Roo X-PR and V-PR. It’s robust and reliable with strong alloy rims and Shimano’s proven hub technology. Most importantly, it allows us to offer the X-PR and V-PR at more accessible price points. It’s not super aero or light, but it will be solid for thousands of training miles and it won’t hold you back in races. For many, that’s all you need!
The HED Ardennes RA Performance is our top alloy upgrade option. It’s great for those who want a slight upgrade over the Shimano RS171 but aren’t ready to drop the cash on carbon wheels. HED Ardennes wheels have been long-time favorites for cyclists who demand reliable performance. Compared to the RS171, it’s a tiny bit more aero, but the biggest advantage is that it’s over 400 grams lighter. That’s a lot! It will make your bike accelerate more easily and feel more sporty. It’s the ultimate durable workhorse wheel in the HED stable.
The ENVE 65 is a great budget carbon aero wheelset. It brings ENVE’s decades of carbon wheel crafting knowledge and WorldTour-winning technology to the masses. Its aero properties and patented pinch flat protection (through its wide hookless bead) are excellent, and in wind tunnel tests it performs nearly as well as ENVE’s flagship SES 6.7 wheelset. For those looking for the most performance per dollar, the ENVE 65 is my favorite option (especially on an X-PR). For everyone short of pro athletes, it will give you all the performance you need!
The DT Swiss ARC 1600 DICUT is a unique wheelset only available to bike manufacturers like QR. It’s essentially a DT Swiss ARC 1400 rim laced to a DT Swiss 350 hub instead of a higher-end 240 hub to reduce cost. This adds a bit of weight, but I’m a big fan of the DT 350 hub. Many consider it the benchmark hub. It’s an ultra-reliable and efficient workhorse that requires minimal maintenance. The AERO+ rim profile was designed with Swiss Side, who are some of the top aero experts in cycling. They are efficient and stable in crosswinds, and a good alternative to the ENVE 65 if you want a hooked rim.
QR has maintained a close relationship with HED for decades because we were two of the first brands to start pushing the aerodynamic envelope in the ‘90s. The HED Vanquish V62 is a wallet-friendly version of HED’s top-of-the-line Vanquish Pro series wheels, It uses the same aerodynamic rim profile and provides nearly the same performance as HED’s Pro line, but it saves you money with slightly heavier hubs and spokes. It’s perfect for riders looking for a high-performance, deep-section carbon wheel at a great price.
The Vanquish Pro series is HED’s fastest wheel offering. Many top triathletes known for dominating bike legs—Sam Laidlow, Lionel Sanders, and Magnus Ditlev—ride HED Vanquish Pro wheels. With top-of-the-line hubs and spokes it shaves a good bit of weight off the standard Vanquish. The Pro series also offers an 84mm deep rim. That’s why we like providing this V62/V84 combo as our top-spec HED option. You get a bit more aero efficiency out of the 84mm rear wheel, but the setup will still handle well in crosswinds with the 62mm front. Despite the deeper rear rim, it weighs a few grams less than a non-Pro Vanquish V62 wheelset!
Zipp is synonymous with aero wheels and it’s the most popular brand used by athletes competing at big events like IRONMAN Kona. They were the first major wheel brand to use extensive wind tunnel testing in their rim designs and they’re responsible for driving the development of modern deep-section wheels. NSW stands for “Nest Speed Weaponry,” which is essentially Zipp’s skunkworks. The 454 NSW is a top-of-the-line offering, and it uses Zipps' patented HexFin ABLC dimples (which improves aerodynamics like a golf ball) and a unique SawTooth rim profile. This mixed depth rim enhances stability and efficiency in crosswinds, making these wheels ultra fast at all wind yaw angles. These wheels not only look cool, they’re impressively lightweight.
The ARC 1100 is DT Swiss’ top-of-the-line wheel. It’s the same wheel used by some of our best pro athletes—Matt Hanson and Arthur Horseau—on their V-PRi bikes, and well as many World Tour road racing teams. It uses the extremely stable and efficient AERO+ rim profile that was developed with Swiss Side. We chose to offer a 62/80 rim depth combo to provide a great balance of speed and crosswind stability. The rear rim is wider, which means you can also choose to run a wider rear tire for extra comfort and lower rolling resistance without a big aero penalty. The wheelset is completed by the latest DT Swiss aero spokes and the lightweight 180 DICUT hub, which combines DT’s legendary hub reliability with ultra-fast SINC ceramic bearings.
For me, the Zipp 454/858 NSW combo is my dream wheelset. Again, we’re offering a setup with a deeper rear wheel for just a bit more aero efficiency. The HexFin ABLC dimples (which improves aerodynamics like a golf ball) and SawTooth rim profile just make these wheels look and perform like nothing else. The Cognition hubs are super efficient, especially when coasting, they spin forever. If I show up to a race with these, they’re so eye-catching that I know I’ll HAVE to perform. I just wish I could afford them!
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Quintana Roo Bike Size Calculator & Size Chart
View our size charts to see what frame size is best for you. After purchasing a new QR bicycle, our team will reach out to you to confirm your order and sizing information to be sure you have selected the optimum frame size.
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V-PR + X-PR SIZE GUIDE
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AERO ROAD BIKES SIZE GUIDE
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